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TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction Chlorine Terminology TYPES OF CHLORINE Tablets 3" Tablets 1" Tablets Granular Sodium Dichlor Trichlor Calcium Hypochlorite Liquid Chlorine Gas Chlorine METHODS OF CHLORINE INTRODUCTION In-line Chlorinator Floating Dispenser Skimmer Direct Application Chlorine Generator CHLORINE TESTING The Chlorine Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing SUPERCHLORINATION Reasons For Super chlorination Types Of Super chlorination Treatments Frequency pH TERMINOLOGY ACID Types Of Acid Muriatic Sulfuric Sodium Bisulfate (dry) BASE (alkali) Types Of Bases Soda Ash Baking Soda pH TESTING The pH Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT pH Citrus Plants Rain Dirt And Debris Pool Surface Total Alkalinity TERMINOLOGY TOTAL ALKALINITY TESTING The Total Alkalinity Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT TOTAL ALKALINITY Citrus Plants Rain Dirt And Debris Pool Surface Conditioner TERMINOLOGY TESTING OF CONDITIONER The Conditioner Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing Water Hardness and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) TERMINOLOGY WATER HARDNESS AND TDS TESTING The Water Hardness Scale The TDS Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT WATER HARDNESS AND TDS Type Of Chlorine Used Type Of Filter Used Tap Water Evaporation Rate Dirt And Debris Metals Copper and Iron TESTING OF COPPER AND IRON The Copper Scale The Iron Scale Ideal Levels Time And Frequency Of Testing Algae TYPES OF ALGAE Green Algae Yellow Algae Pink Algae Black Algae METHODS OF ALGAE PREVENTION METHODS OF ALGAE DESTRUCTION SAFETY CHEMICALS INTRODUCTION From the moment your new swimming pool has been installed and filled with fresh water, proper care must be taken to ensure that algae or other organic contaminants do not accumulate. In addition to proper filtration and regular cleaning maintenance, the addition of chemicals is essential to keeping your pool sparkling clean. This section of the Pool Care Manual serves to introduce you, the pool owner, to the chemicals used in swimming pools, and to the testing and addition procedures required to maintain the levels of those chemicals. Each major chemical is defined in detail, along with the various testing and addition procedures, and some basic troubleshooting guides. While the information contained in the following guide is fairly comprehensive, it is recommended that you visit the pool professionals at your nearest Pool retail showroom regularly to keep abreast of the latest swimming pool treatment techniques and to have your pool water thoroughly tested by their computerized testing facilities (if available). This section of the Pool Care Manual is divided into eight sections, each corresponding to a different aspect of swimming pool chemical care. Chlorine and pH, considered the "basics", are explained in detail, as well as total alkalinity, conditioner, water hardness, and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). The most common metals (other than calcium), copper and iron, are also discussed. A thorough investigation into the major types of algae is presented, and the section is concluded with an introduction to the first few weeks of swimming pool care. The addition of an In-Floor cleaning system will greatly increase the effectiveness of the chemicals in your pool by introducing them to the bottom of the pool and then mixing them thoroughly throughout the pool. CHLORINE In order to keep the pool water free from contaminants, it is necessary to add a chemical that is capable of killing algae before it becomes visible or a health hazard. As a rule, the presence of algae in water does not pose a significant risk to health, but it can enter open cuts or sores and cause an infection. Once the concentration of algae in the water becomes great, it is visible to the naked eye as discolored water or blemishes on the pool surface. At this stage, more drastic measures than just the routine addition of chlorine or some other water disinfectant are needed to bring it back into control. Approaches to visible algae control are covered in the last section of this manual. Here, the most common type of water sanitizer, chlorine, will be covered in detail, along with its testing procedures, and some troubleshooting guides. A. TERMINOLOGY Before discussing methods of using chlorine, some basic terms must be introduced. They will be presented in a "dictionary" format, and will include pronunciation guides when necessary. Total Chlorine: The total amount of chlorine, in any form, dissolved in the pool water. It is measured in parts of chlorine per 1 million parts of water (by volume), and the measurement is abbreviated a ppm (parts per million). Total chlorine can be tested directly with an ordinary test kit. Combined Chlorine: The amount of chlorine in the pool water, which is chemically combined with organic waste matter. This matter need not be algae, and, in fact, could include one or more of the following: suntan lotion, body oils, sweat, and other body fluids. While these materials are organic, they do not cause visible water discoloration at normal concentrations. They do, however, prevent chlorine from effectively destroying algae. Combined chlorine is measured in ppm, but is not tested directly. To find the level of combined chlorine in the pool water, subtract the free chlorine level (see below) from the total chlorine level. Free Chlorine: The amount of chlorine in the pool water, which is active and available to effectively destroy algae. The free chlorine level is the most important chlorine test level, and can be tested directly using a deluxe home test kit or at the nearest Pool Retail Showroom. Dry Chlorine: Any form of chlorine, which is neither a liquid nor a gas. Dry chlorine is available in tablet or granular form. Liquid Chlorine: Also known as Sodium Hypochlorite, liquid chlorine is available only in one-gallon containers, usually in cardboard boxes containing two or more gallons. Liquid chlorine should not be confused with chlorine bleach, such as Clorox(r), as it is several times stronger than bleach. Gas Chlorine: Gas chlorine can either be added directly to the pool water, or it can be manufactured from ordinary salt in a chlorine generator such as the AutoClear(r). In the long run, it is the least expensive of all three types of chlorine to use, but only the pool owner can use the generators. Direct injection of gas chlorine is done only by qualified and licensed pool care services. Chlorine is present in nature as a gas, and because of this it contains no fillers or by-products. B. TYPES OF CHLORINE Chlorine is manufactured in three different types: dry, liquid, and gas. Dry chlorine is made both in a tablet form and granular form. Liquid chlorine and gas chlorine each are made and sold in one form. All types of chlorine that are available to swimming pool owners are discussed in this section. Tablets Chlorine tablets are usually made in two different sizes: 3-inch and 1-inch diameters. Both sizes are available due to the fact that each requires a different method to introduce them into the pool water. a. 3" tablets 3-inch tablets are by far the most common size of chlorine tablets. They dissolve very slowly, and are generally available at a lower cost to the customer. Both of these facts make 3-inch tablets far more cost effective than their 1-inch counterparts. 3-inch tablets can be introduced to the pool in a variety of ways. They can be used in an in-line chlorinator or a floating chlorinator. b. 1" tablets 1-inch chlorine tablets are smaller, and thus dissolve faster than 3-inch tablets. This is advantageous in the case where there is relatively low water circulation, or if the only available method of introducing chlorine into the pool is the floating chlorinator. Since there tends to be very little water movement in floating chlorinators, and erosion of the tablets depends on water movement, the faster-dissolving 1-inch tablets would be the chlorine form of choice. Both 1-inch and 3-inch tablets are made from the same type of chlorine, thus they have equal strength. The only difference lies in the size of each tablet. ** Paramount does not recommend putting any form of chlorine in the skimmer baskets, pump baskets, or ADR bags. Use an in-line chlorinator or floating chlorinator. Granular Chlorine Dry chlorine is also available in granular form. The types of granular chlorine vary in strength, and care should be taken in choosing the strength that best suits the swimming pool's needs. a. Sodium Dichlor Sodium Dichlor is granular chlorine intended for concrete, vinyl-lined, and fiberglass swimming pools and cold-water spas. Since it only contains 62% available chlorine, it is not powerful enough to damage these surfaces. The use of Sodium Dichlor in plaster pools and heated spas is not recommended due to the relatively higher cost involved in maintaining an ideal chlorine level. b. Trichlor Trichlor is the most powerful dry chlorine available. It contains 89% available chlorine and also contains conditioner that, as explained in a later section, helps to increase the life of the chlorine once it has dissolved in the water. Because of its high strength, trichlor cannot be used in vinyl-lined or fiberglass pools or fiberglass spas. If used in one of these environments, the trichlor would damage the lining of the pool or spa, causing leakage and discoloration. However, it's higher concentration of available chlorine allows for smaller doses and longer times between applications, thus making it more cost effective than Sodium Dichlor. c. Calcium Hypochlorite Calcium Hypochlorite is another type of granular chlorine. As its name suggests, it contains calcium, a metal that can cause scale buildup on the tile and the pool surface. For this reason it is not recommended to use Calcium Hypochlorite on a regular basis as a primary source of chlorine. It is, however, widely used for super chlorination. This use is acceptable since super chlorination is only done periodically. However, prolonged or excessive use of Calcium Hypochlorite for super chlorination can result in scale buildup (see later section on super chlorination). ** Paramount recommends that the pool surface is completely clean before using, so as not to stain the pool surface. Liquid Chlorine Liquid chlorine is a very common type of chlorine used in swimming pools for super chlorination and algae removal. Because it contains only 10% available chlorine, and it contains no conditioner, it is not advisable to use liquid chlorine as a primary source of chlorine for the pool. It is, however, an excellent choice for super chlorination, as it is relatively inexpensive and dissipates within 12 to 24 hours, allowing use of the pool in a very short time. Liquid chlorine is sold only in one-gallon containers and is usually packaged with two gallons in one box. It does not have a long shelf life (about 2 weeks), and thus should not be stored for future use. Gas Chlorine Gas chlorine is the purest form of chlorine available. Since chlorine occurs naturally as a gas, it contains no by-products, and thus contains 100% available chlorine. Gas chlorine can be added to the pool in two ways: it can be directly injected into the pool water from a storage container, or it can be manufactured from salt using a chlorine generator. The latter method is available to the consumer, but licensed pool service technicians can only do direct gas injection. C. METHODS OF CHLORINE INTRODUCTION In-line Chlorinator In-line chlorinators are those, which are installed with the piping network of the swimming pool equipment. They hold either 3-inch or 1-inch tablets and have regulator valves to control the rate at which the chlorine dissolves. In-line chlorinators allow for longer times between applications of chlorine and keep the chlorine away from the reach of children animals. Floating Dispenser Floating chlorine dispensers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and sometimes are in the shape of decorative animals such as ducks and swans. In some cases they are pre-loaded with 1-inch tablets and are disposed of when empty. Others are refillable, allowing the use of either 3-inch or 1-inch tablets. In some cases, the chlorine demand for a certain pool is greater than the output of a single floating chlorinator. In these special cases, the best alternative is to use more than one floater, or to use the faster dissolving 1-inch tablets. Skimmer Contrary to some opinions, the pool's skimmer is a perfectly acceptable place for chlorine tablets. The high water flow in the skimmer provides excellent erosion of 3-inch tablets, and the plastic construction of today's modern skimmers is not subject to corrosion by chlorine. In addition, PVC pipes, thermoplastic pumps, and fiberglass filters do not corrode in the presence of chlorine. However, copper heating elements and other metal objects found in some pool filtration systems may be corroded and have decreased life due to high concentrations of chlorine. In these cases, it is advisable to use one of the other two methods described above. ** Paramount recommends never putting any form of chlorine in the skimmer baskets, pump baskets or the ADR bags. Use an in-line chlorinator or floating chlorinator. Direct Application Direct chlorine application applies only to granular and liquid chlorine use. The only way to add granular or liquid chlorine to the pool water is to evenly sprinkle it over the water surface. Because of the harmful fumes and chlorines tendency to irritate skin, granular and liquid chlorines are generally rejected in favor of tablets. Chlorine Generator An alternative to directly adding chlorine to a pool using either tablets or granular chlorine is to generate the chlorine from ordinary salt, which is made from sodium and chlorine. One method is most often employed and involves the addition of granulated salt directly into the pool water. As it circulates through the filtration system, a special unit adds a small electric current to the mixture and the sodium and chlorine are separated and added simultaneously to the water. There is no sodium by-product to remove, and a small amount of salt is added to the pool about twice a year. D. CHLORINE TESTING In order to ensure the proper amount of chlorine is in the pool water, the water must be tested regularly. It is assumed that at least a standard pool water testing kit is present and that the instructions for the particular kit have been read and understood. The Chlorine Scale The concentration of chlorine in water is measured in parts per million (ppm), that is, parts of chlorine per one million parts of water. A standard test kit is graduated on one side from zero ppm to 3.0 ppm, although the concentration can be much higher than 3.0 ppm. Once the chlorine vial in the test kit is filled with pool water, and the proper number of drops of OTO (or tablets of DPD, for those test kits using such a chemical) is added to the sample, the color of the sample should change in the presence of chlorine. That is, if chlorine is present in the pool water, the color of the sample should change to a shade of yellow (or pink if DPD test tablets are used). The next step is to match the color of the sample with one of the colors corresponding to the chlorine concentrations on the test kit. If the color of the sample matches that of one of the concentrations on the test kit, the number corresponding to that color is the amount of TOTAL chlorine in the swimming pool (in the case of DPD test kits, the color of the sample after adding DPD #1 is the FREE chlorine, and the color after adding DPD #3 is the TOTAL chlorine). Ideal Levels Most test kits are labeled with an "ideal" level for chlorine, usually between 1.0 and 1.5 ppm. While this level is adequate for most pools, it is recommended to maintain a higher chlorine concentration than this during the hot summer months. It has been found that a concentration of 1.5 ppm dissipates too quickly during days with temperatures above 95-100 degrees F, thus It is recommended that a concentration of 3.0 ppm be maintained during the warmest summer months. This ensures that the minimum level of 1.5 ppm is present and also provides additional chlorine to combat the additional organic wastes present due to the increased pool use. Due to the fact that each swimming pool has different chlorine requirements, it is difficult to recommend the precise number of tablets, etc, that are required to maintain a 3.0-ppm chlorine level. For this reason, it is advised to experiment with a particular pool to determine its requirements. As a starting point, use the guide on the previous page. Allow the system to circulate for 24 hours, and then test the chlorine concentration. If the level is too high, decrease the amount of chlorine used, or decrease the setting of the chlorinator. If the level is too low, add more tablets or granular chlorine, add another floater, or supplement using an additional method. Time And Frequency Of Testing During the summer months, a swimming pool must be tested every day, since the levels of chlorine and pH can vary dramatically within a matter of hours. Since the chlorine and pH are the two tests of primary interest, these are the only two that must be tested on a daily basis. The other tests, such as alkalinity, hardness, etc., are tested on a weekly and/or monthly basis, as discussed in later sections. As the outside temperatures decrease, the frequency of testing can decrease also. In other words, during non-summer months, testing for chlorine and pH can be done twice per week or even once per week in the coldest winter months. During the middle of the afternoon, the temperature is warmest and the sun is usually able to shine into the water easiest, and it is at this time that algae grow most rapidly. Thus, this is also the time when the chlorine level should be at its highest, since it will be necessary to prevent the rapid spread of algae. It is for this reason that it is recommended to test the pool water during the warmest part of the day (i.e. between the hours of 3:00 pm and 5:00 pm). If the chlorine was tested at 9:00 in the morning, and the level is 3.0 ppm, it is entirely possible that the chlorine concentration may decrease dramatically, say to 1.0 ppm before the warmest portion of the day arrives. Therefore, an ideal chlorine level in the morning may not necessarily mean an ideal level in the afternoon, when it is needed most. If an ideal 3.0-ppm level is noticed at 5:00 pm, it can be assumed that it was at least that amount throughout the day, and the pool was properly protected against the spread of algae. E. SUPERCHLORINATION Super chlorination refers to a process by which the chlorine level in the swimming pool is raised to abnormally high levels over a very short period of time, usually a few hours. Since this requires rapid addition of chlorine, slow-dissolving tablets are not suitable for super chlorination. Instead, special granular or liquid chlorines are used which are packaged in appropriate sizes and which do not remain in the pool water for an extended period of time, allowing the pool to be used as soon as possible. Another common name for super chlorination is "shocking". Reasons For Super chlorination Over time and with extended use, organic wastes build up in the pool water. These wastes include body oils, sweat and other body fluids, and suntan lotions. Once these wastes are present, the chlorine begins to break them down, as it would any organic substance that enters the water. However, since the chlorine is working to eliminate these organic wastes, it is not available to eliminate spores of algae as they enter the water from the air. This can allow the algae spores to multiply, resulting in visible algae in a short period of time. It is therefore required to increase the pool's chlorine concentration rapidly in an effort to eliminate the organic wastes so that the chlorine is free to prevent the spread of algae. Types Of Super chlorination Treatments Over time and with extended use, organic wastes build up in the pool water. These wastes include body oils, sweat and other body fluids, and suntan lotions. Once these wastes are present, the chlorine begins to break them down, as it would any organic substance that enters the water. However, since the chlorine is working to eliminate these organic wastes, it is not available to eliminate spores of algae as they enter the water from the air. This can allow the algae spores to multiply, resulting in visible algae in a short period of time. It is therefore required to increase the pool's chlorine concentration rapidly in an effort to eliminate the organic wastes so that the chlorine is free to prevent the spread of algae. Frequency It is recommended to super chlorinate a swimming pool every two weeks in the summer, when the pool is used more, and the possibility of the presence of organic wastes is great. During the off- season, once per month is sufficient. It is also recommended that super chlorination take place in the evening, after the sun has set, since this is when the pool is not being used and the treatment will not be removed by UV rays from the sun before it has the opportunity to perform its function. pH Every substance has a pH: water, juice, dirt, leaves, salt, food, and shampoo. All of these items have a certain amount of acid in them. The amount of acid in a substance is measured by the pH. Vinegar is also known as acetic acid. Citrus fruits and juices contain large amounts of citric acid. Baking soda contains a very small amount of acid, and is thus referred to as a base, or alkali. In swimming pools, a certain pH range is required to ensure proper efficiency of other chemicals, as well as the comfort of those using the pool. Proper care must be taken to ensure that the pH of the pool does not reach a level which could be harmful to swimmers, or which could damage equipment or the pool itself. A. TERMINOLOGY pH: pH stands for "power of hydrogen" and is so named because it is the presence of hydrogen that determined the acidity of a substance. The more hydrogen, the more acidic the substance is, and thus the lower the pH. It is often a misunderstanding that as the pH increases this means that the amount of acid in the water increases, when in fact the opposite is true. Acid: Acid is a substance, either liquid or granular, which has the ability of lowering the pH of water. In liquid form it is quite concentrated, and thus only a small amount is required to lower the pH of an average swimming pool. Examples of common acids are muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, sulfuric acid, and sodium bisulfate (dry acid). Base (or Alkali): A base is a substance, usually a granular product, which has the ability of raising the pH of water. Examples of common bases are soda ash and baking soda. B. ACID Acid lowers the pH of swimming pool water. There are three different types of acids used in pools, and they will be discussed here, along with testing methods and some other factors that affect the pH level of the pool water. Types Of Acid a. Muriatic (hydrochloric) Acid Muriatic is the most common type of swimming pool acid, and it is also the strongest (most highly reactive) type of acid. It is also called hydrochloric acid, as it is made of only hydrogen and chlorine. The highest concentration available to the consumer is only 38%, but even at this relatively low concentration it is a very dangerous chemical. Care should be taken to avoid contact with the skin, clothing, and every other surface capable of corrosion. Never add water to acid . . . always add acid to water. Adding water to acid can cause the escape of harmful, perhaps fatal fumes and also the possibility of fire. Always keep all acids in a well-ventilated area outside of all living areas. b. Sulfuric Acid Sulfuric acid is one of the most commonly recognized acids in the public sector. It is, however, a much less reactive acid than muriatic acid, and is therefore referred to as a "weak" acid. Because of this, it can be found in much higher concentrations, as high as 93%. At this concentration, one cup of sulfuric acid will do the same job as 1 quart of muriatic acid. Care should be taken to avoid overdosing of the swimming pool using concentrated sulfuric acid. Even though it is less reactive than muriatic acid, the same care and precautions should be taken as with muriatic acid. c. Sodium Bisulfate (dry) Dry acid is a granular acid commonly used to lower the pH of fiberglass pools and spas, vinyl-lined pools, painted pools, and all pools whose surface could be damaged by strong liquid acids. Although it is a relatively weak acid, it can be a powerful irritant and thus the same safety precautions should be followed as with muriatic and sulfuric acid. C. BASE (alkali) A base raises the pH of swimming pool water. In most cases, routine addition of a base is not necessary, but a small amount of one, such as soda ash, may be needed in case too much acid is added either by the user or by nature. Types Of Bases a. Soda Ash Soda ash is a chemical usually granular, which neutralizes acid. It is made from sodium, carbon, and oxygen, and can be as harmful and dangerous as acid, so care must be taken to avoid contact with skin, clothing, and anything subject to corrosion. Never add water to soda ash . . . always add soda ash to water. In addition, all of the same safety precautions taken with acid should also be taken with soda ash. b. Baking Soda Baking soda is a very common chemical found in virtually all households. It is also used in swimming pools in a limited capacity. Baking soda is a "weak" base, and because of this, it is an excellent means to control total alkalinity (discussed in Section 4). Unlike acid and soda ash, baking soda is relatively mild and generally does not irritate human tissues. However, since it does react with acid in a somewhat violent manner, care should be taken to avoid mixing baking soda and acid in any environment other than the swimming pool. D. pH TESTING The pH Scale On a standard test kit, the pH scale is graduated from 6.8 to 8.2. These numbers are not in ppm. The numbers refer to the concentration of hydrogen (acid) in the water but the scale is somewhat in reverse. The scale actually ranges from a low of zero to a high of 14, but only the range from 6.8 to 8.2 is of concern for swimming pools. Water with a pH of zero is said to be pure acid, while water with a pH of 14 is said to be pure base (or alkali). A 7.0 pH indicates neutral water, meaning it has neither too much acid nor too much base. Muriatic acid has a pH of approximately 1.0, while soda ash has a pH of approximately 13.0. Water with a pH of 6.0 is 10 times more acidic than water with a pH of 7.0, and the same is true for the alkaline side of the scale. Thus it is imperative that the pH be kept within proper levels to ensure the safety of the swimmers, and the longevity of the pool equipment. Ideal Levels The ideal level for pH is generally the same for all swimming pools, regardless of climate, amount of use, temperature, or pool surface. This ideal level falls between 7.4 and 7.6 for all pool surfaces. There are two important reasons for this ideal level. First, chlorine is most efficient at a pH of 7.0, when there is neither too much acid nor too much base to interfere with its function. However, the pH of human blood is approximately 7.42, and thus a 7.0 pH would cause discomfort to swimmers. Thus it is recommended to keep the pH as close to 7.4 as possible. Also, to ensure that no corrosion of the pool surface takes place, a slightly higher pH is needed, and as a result the ideal range for pH is between 7.4 and 7.6. Time And Frequency Of Testing During the warm summer months, the pH of the swimming pool can change rapidly. For this reason it is advisable to test the pH level daily during these times. The specific time of day at which the pH should be tested is not as critical as that for chlorine, but for convenience, both should be tested at the same time, namely late afternoon. E. OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT pH In addition to the addition of acid and soda ash by the user, there are a number of other factors that can vary the pH of a swimming pool. Among these are the presence of citrus plants, rain, dirt and debris, and the type of pool surface present. Citrus Plants As mentioned earlier, citrus plants contain a powerful acid called citric acid. Once this acid is introduced to the pool water, it lowers the pH, frequently to a large degree. In some cases, the amount of citric acid added to the water in this way is severe. In this case, it is advisable to keep as many leaves and citrus fruits out of the pool water as possible, whether by eliminating or relocating the plant, or by adding a cover to the pool. Rain In urban areas where a significant amount of air pollution exists, the rain that falls brings with it a significant amount of sulfuric acid. It is important to test the pH as soon as possible after a rainstorm to ensure that it does not remain below ideal levels for an extended period of time. Dirt And Debris Some soils, especially those in the southwest deserts, are very alkaline. Since alkaline substances neutralize acid and raise the pH of water, the presence of large amounts of dirt and debris in the swimming pool can increase the pH significantly. In cases where large amounts of dirt and debris are entering the pool water, it is advisable to keep the pool covered as much as possible. Pool Surface The type of surface used on a swimming pool can also affect the pH of the pool water. Plaster or concrete based pool surfaces, are porous, alkaline materials. They can absorb and neutralize acid in pool water, thereby raising its pH. In this case, small amounts of acid are generally needed to maintain a proper pH balance. Fiberglass, vinyl, and painted plaster pools, on the other hand, do not have porous surfaces, and thus do not absorb or neutralize acid in the water. Here, small amounts of soda ash or baking soda may be needed to keep the pH at a proper level after acid is added in the form of rain, citrus leaves, etc. TOTAL ALKALINITY Total alkalinity is a measure of the total amount of dissolved particles in the water whose pH is higher than 7.0. For this definition, a particle is any object that does not break down completely when dissolved in water. Examples of particles include dirt, sand, and baking soda. Baking soda, unlike soda ash, does not break down completely, but instead remains as a compound and stays in the water for an extended period of time. Alkaline particles in pool water, at certain levels, act as a buffer to prevent rapid changes in the pool's pH. Thus, when the total alkalinity of the pool water is within the ideal levels, the pH of the water will tend to stay balanced for longer periods of time. A. TERMINOLOGY Alkalinity: See "Base" in section 3A above. Buffer: A buffer is a substance that prevents rapid and large changes, usually in the pH of the environment it is in. In this case, the alkalinity of the water itself helps to minimize rapid changes in the pH of the water when reasonable amounts of acid are added. B. TOTAL ALKALINITY TESTING The Total Alkalinity Scale Total alkalinity is measured in parts per million (ppm). The scale by which it is measured begins at zero ppm and has no upper limit. Generally, the maximum level concerning swimming pool users is on the order of 200 ppm, but the recommended ideal levels fall well below this amount. Ideal Levels The ideal level for total alkalinity varies with the type of surface the pool possesses. For all pool surfaces, the recommended level falls between 120 and 140 ppm if any trichlor, gas, or liquid chlorine, or bromine tablets or sticks are used, and 100-120 dichlor, liquid chlorine, calcium-or lithium- hypochlorite is used. ** Paramount recommends 120 ppm of alkalinity, no matter what form of chlorine is used. Time And Frequency Of Testing Unlike chlorine and pH, total alkalinity does not need to be tested on a daily basis, due to the fact that it does not change rapidly. It is generally recommended to test the total alkalinity 2 to 4 times per month throughout the year. However, if the pool's pH is not remaining balanced, or large amounts of acid, soda ash or baking soda have been added to the pool, it is advisable to have the total alkalinity tested as soon as possible. There is no specific time of day at which the alkalinity should be tested but, again, for convenience, it is recommended that it be tested at the same time as the chlorine and pH tests. C. OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT TOTAL ALKALINITY All of the same factors that affect pH are also responsible for changes in the total alkalinity. For a reminder of what these factors are, refer to the pH Section 3E of this guide CONDITIONER Conditioner is a chemical that, to a certain extent, protects the chlorine from ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. Since UV light is partly responsible for the degradation of chlorine in pool water, conditioner helps to keep chlorine in the water for longer periods of time. Conditioner is generally added once after the pool is filled with fresh water, but if an excessive amount of water has been lost due to backwashing or a leak, it is recommended to have the conditioner level tested. A. TERMINOLOGY Conditioner: Conditioner is a name given to a chemical that inhibits the degradation of chlorine by UV light. Other commonly used names for conditioner include: stabilizer, sun-shield, or the chemical name cyanuric acid. Stabilized Chlorine: Stabilized chlorine refers to chlorine that is made with a base of conditioner. The chlorine binds to the conditioner base, and as the chlorine dissolves, it leaves conditioner behind. The presence of conditioner in the chlorine serves two purposes. It affords a small amount of protection to the chlorine from UV light, and it also acts to supplement the pools conditioner level, as it is gradually reduced by backwashing and splashing. Chlorine that contains conditioner is usually marked with the words "Sun-Shielded". Usually, only tablets and some granular chlorine contain conditioner. Unstabilized Chlorine: Unstabilized chlorine refers to chlorine that does not contain conditioner. This type of chlorine is generally used as a method of super chlorination, and is not recommended as the primary source of the swimming pool's chlorine residual. B. TESTING OF CONDITIONER The Conditioner Scale Conditioner is measured in parts per million (ppm). The scale begins at zero ppm and has no upper limit. Generally, the maximum level concerning swimming pools is on the order of 200 ppm, but the recommended ideal range is well below this amount. Ideal Levels The recommended ideal level for conditioner in a swimming pool is between 40 and 100 ppm. It is advisable to begin the summer season with a level that is near 40 ppm and allow the conditioner present in the chlorine itself to raise the level toward 100 ppm throughout the season. If the chlorine used is not stabilized, small amounts of conditioner may be required to maintain an average of 70 ppm. Time And Frequency Of Testing Since the concentration of conditioner does not vary to a great extent, it is usually required to test it only once per month. If, however, a large chlorine demand is noticed, it is advisable to have the conditioner level tested as soon as possible. There is no specific time of day at which the conditioner level should be tested. WATER HARDNESS AND TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS) One big source of problems for many pool owners is hard water. The same problems associated with hard water in household pipes, namely scale buildup, can be magnified many times in a swimming pool environment. Once hardness levels become high, scale may form on the pool tile, the pool surface, and even the pipes and equipment. Unfortunately, the causes of hard water in swimming pools are, for the most part, unavoidable. To begin with, the tap water used to fill a swimming pool contains a certain amount of calcium, the main component of hard water. It is the calcium in the water, combined with alkaline particles, which produces the visible scale buildup. Usually, the concentration of calcium in the tap water is well within, or even below, the recommended levels for swimming pools, but as the water in the pool evaporates, the calcium is left behind, since it is much heavier than the water itself. As the pool is being refilled, more calcium is being added through the tap water, and thus the concentration of calcium in the swimming pool increases. The level of total dissolved solids (TDS) in the pool is not as important as that of calcium hardness. TDS is usually used as a tool to determine the general condition of the pool water in terms of how many dissolved particles are present. As the water remains in the swimming pool for extended periods of time, particles accumulate and eventually become so plentiful as to interfere with the function of the pool's chemicals, as well as to cause significant loss in water clarity. ** Paramount recommends that prior to filling your pool, a sample of your tap water be tested by your nearest Pool retail store for hardness. Report the reading to the Pool Builder Construction Department, so they can take the necessary steps, if needed, to correct. A. TERMINOLOGY Water Hardness: Water hardness is a measure of the concentration of minerals, primarily calcium, present in the pool water. Water hardness is also referred to as calcium hardness, and at high levels, can cause scale buildup. Total Dissolved Solids (TDS): TDS is a measure of all of the dissolved particles in the swimming pool water. These include calcium, manganese, copper, iron, other trace metals, total alkalinity, conditioner, and all substances not totally broken down by the pool water. It is generally used as a tool to determine the overall condition of the water and to determine whether or not the water should be removed and replaced with fresher tap water. B. WATER HARDNESS AND TDS TESTING Water hardness and TDS are both measured in parts per million (ppm). Both scales begin at zero ppm and have no upper limit. Generally, the maximum levels concerning swimming pools are on the order of 1000 ppm in the case of water hardness, and 2000 in the case of TDS. Ideal Levels The recommended ideal levels of water hardness and TDS are 200-400 ppm and 400-1500 ppm, respectively. The lower limit for water hardness is necessary to ensure the longevity of pool plaster and any metal components in direct contact with the pool water. Since pool plaster is composed partly of calcium, it is possible for soft pool water to pull the calcium from the plaster, causing degradation of the pool surface. Other pool surfaces, such as fiberglass, also contain some metals in them, and these metals would be removed in the presence of soft pool water. For these reasons, it is not recommended to add soft water in large amounts to the swimming pool. Concentrations of calcium higher than 400 ppm can cause scale buildup along the tile line, and on the surface of the pool itself. These scale deposits begin to appear as simply a rough surface finish, but as they progress, they darken to eventually resemble a brownish stain with a rough texture. Low TDS levels are usually present only in soft water, and are not a major concern in ordinary tap water. It is not possible to have a lower TDS level than that of calcium, since TDS is partly composed of calcium, thus as long as the calcium is within the recommended ideal levels, the TDS should follow suit. High TDS levels, on the other hand, may cause a lack of water clarity, even if the calcium concentration is within ideal levels. If persistent cloudiness of the pool water is observed, test the TDS level as soon as possible. Time And Frequency Of Testing Since the evaporation rate is highest during the summer months, it is advisable to have the water hardness and TDS levels tested twice per month during this time. During the off-season, testing for these levels once per month is sufficient. There is no specific time of day to test for water hardness or TDS. C. OTHER FACTORS WHICH AFFECT WATER HARDNESS AND TDS Type Of Chlorine Used Some types of chlorine contain relatively high levels of by-products, including calcium. It is advisable to check the ingredients for the presence of such by-products and avoid them whenever possible. It is always best to use chlorines possessing high amounts of available chlorine, that is, the actual amount of usable chlorine in the container. The highest amount of available chlorine is usually 89%, found in most tablets and some granular chlorine. Type Of Filter Used Some filters, such as sand and diatomaceous earth (D.E.), have the ability to be backwashed, or cleaned, using the pool's existing pump. During this process, some of the pool's water is lost, and as a result, so are some of the calcium and other minerals in the pool water. When done frequently, this can help to keep the water hardness and TDS levels within ideal levels. Other filters, such as cartridge filters, do not use this method of cleaning, and thus the pool water is not cleansed of minerals as it is with sand and D.E. filters. In this case, water hardness and TDS levels can climb at a more rapid rate. Dirt And Debris Some dirt, especially in the southwest deserts, is rich in calcium and other minerals; the presence of it in the swimming pool can introduce these minerals to the pool water. Care should be taken to ensure that as little dirt and debris as possible enter the pool water. Metals The presence of metals such as copper and iron can increase the TDS level of the pool water. If large amounts of these metals are entering the swimming pool, steps should be taken to eliminate their source. COPPER AND IRON The presence of copper and iron in pool water can lead to damage or discoloration of the pool surface, and corrosion of metal components in direct contact with the pool water. Any time metal objects such as poles, toys, and tools fall into the swimming pool, they can release iron and copper into the pool water. These "local" deposits of metal could cause a discoloration of the pool surface in that area. Also, some common algaecides used in swimming pools contain moderate amounts of copper, and when used in excess, can cause staining (usually blue or green) of the pool surface. In addition, some areas have relatively high concentrations of iron in the tap water. These high concentrations of iron can cause general rust spots to develop over large area of the pool surface. A. TESTING OF COPPER AND IRON The Copper And Iron Scales Copper and iron are both measured in parts per million (ppm). The scale begins at zero ppm and has no upper limit. Generally the maximum level of copper and iron concerning swimming pools is on the order of 1.0 ppm. Ideal Levels The recommended ideal levels of copper and iron in swimming pool water are both zero ppm, since the presence of these metals can cause problems as explained above. However, some pools are equipped with devices that introduce copper into the pool water in small amounts in an effort to reduce chlorine use and prevent certain types of algae buildup. In these cases, it is recommended that a copper concentration of approximately 0.2 ppm be maintained. Time And Frequency Of Testing Since the concentrations of copper and iron do not change rapidly under normal circumstances, testing for these metals once per month is generally sufficient, unless a copper ionizer is used as a source of sanitizer. In this case, follow the ionizer manufacturer's directions. However, if persistent general staining is observed, it is recommended to test for copper and iron as soon as possible. There is no specific time of day to test for these metals. ALGAE Without proper chemical care, algae spores that enter the pool water from the air will multiply and become visible colonies. These colonies can take several forms and are identified by their colors. Of the many species of algae, only four are common in household swimming pools: green, yellow, pink and black. A. TYPES OF ALGAE Green Algae Green algae are by far the most common type of fresh water algae. It can grow both on the pool surface, resembling a green, slimy stain, and also suspended in the pool water, causing the water to appear to have a green tint. In severe cases, the algae is concentrated enough so that it is impossible to see the pool bottom, or even the steps. This can occur without significant warning during the summer months and may even happen within a 24-hour period. For this reason, it is always advisable to make certain that the chlorine concentration is well within the ideal range. Yellow Algae Yellow algae (also called mustard algae) are actually a type of green algae, but because of its different appearance and somewhat more difficult removal procedure, it is discussed separately here. Yellow algae almost always form on the pool surface, usually in shaded areas. It is yellow-brown in color, has a slimy texture, and can most often be brushed away with a few vigorous strokes of a standard pool brush. Pink Algae Pink algae are a relatively uncommon type of algae that is pink or red in color, and usually forms around pipefittings and light fixtures on the pool surface. Black Algae Black algae is a very common type of algae, and is the most difficult to remove once it has formed. A colony of black algae always forms on the pool surface, and usually is first visible when it is about the size of a small fingernail, but can grow rapidly and eventually become larger than a dinner plate. The spores settle in porous surfaces, such as rough plaster (mostly caused by calcium buildup), and begins to anchor itself to the surface. It is able to dig a root into the porous surface and from there can develop an extensive root network beneath the pool surface, usually between the plaster and the concrete. Once the root has been formed, the algae become visible, but at this time it is already too late. Destruction of the visible portion is by no means a guarantee that the entire colony is destroyed. B. METHODS OF ALGAE PREVENTION The proper maintenance of pool chemicals are the best way to ensure the prevention of most types of algae. Some green algae, and virtually all yellow algae are immune to chlorine, so in these cases it is almost impossible to guarantee the prevention of all algae. However, there are algaecides available to the consumer that uses both chlorine and copper to collectively destroy these chlorine-immune algae. Ensuring that the pool surface is as smooth as possible can most easily prevent black algae. Maintaining a proper water hardness level, and ensuring that any damage to the pool surface is repaired as soon as possible are the best ways of keeping a smooth pool surface. C. METHODS OF ALGAE DESTRUCTION Once algae has become visible to the naked eye, it will require a great deal more time and expense to kill it than it would have to have prevented its formation. For this reason, the prevention of algae is stressed. There are information sheets available at most local Pool retail showrooms concerning the destruction of each type of algae mentioned above. With the exception of black algae, the destruction of algae means the total eradication of the colony from the swimming pool, and the pool is to be maintained as usual from that point on. With black algae, as mentioned above, the visible portion may have been removed, but a root still exists until at least a liquid chlorine bath can be performed, requiring the pool to be drained and scrubbed with liquid chlorine. POOL SAFETY The use and care of a swimming pool should be a safe and enjoyable experience for everyone. Since there are a number of items in and around a swimming pool, including the pool itself, which can be a potential hazard, familiarization of the safety aspects of these items is mandatory. Please refer to the warning labels on any product for use in or near the swimming pool, and follow any directions for the safe and clean disposal of these items. Please refer to your equipment owner's manuals for all operating and safety precautions. A. CHEMICALS The chemicals used in a swimming pool pose a definite hazard to occupants and equipment. A few simple guidelines should be followed to ensure the safety of everyone. In this context, a "chemical" includes, but is not limited to, chlorine, acid, soda ash, any algaecide, diatomaceous earth, silica sand, and any cleaning agent. · Never mix any two chemicals together, either away from or in the pool water. · Never add water to a chemical . . . always add the chemical to water. · Never handle a chemical without the use of protective gloves and a form of nose-mouth protection. This can be a disposable fabric mask or a respirator. · Never add two different chemicals to the pool water at the same time . . . always allow at least 4 hours between applications unless otherwise directed by the chemical manufacturer. · Never allow anyone to use the pool within 4 hours after the addition of chemicals. · Never store any chemicals inside the house, in direct sunlight, or near the pool area. · Always keep all pool chemicals out of the reach of children. · Never store two different chemicals adjacent to one another. Leakage of one could cause them to mix and a chemical reaction could result. · Avoid contact of any chemical with the skin or mucous membranes, such as those in the mouth, eyes, and nose. If this occurs, flush the area with water and consult a physician immediately. Be sure to have the container of the chemical nearby to inform the physician of the agent involved. · Be aware of the addition of any pool chemicals by another person, to avoid interaction or overdose. Paramount Products  | Pool Help